Finale

Now home after a drive to the Loire, where Margaret and Rodger welcomed us again, and then a flight from Tours to Manchester.

Given that we have ridden 1100k and driven another 700k, can I just have a final word about French drivers?

As a fellow motorist I think they are generally hopeless. They drive way too fast, and way too close.

However most French drivers are brilliant when they encounter cyclists; much better than their English counterparts.

French motorists, even lorry drivers, will actually stop if they cannot pass you safely.  And by safely , I stress that they will often wait till they can use the other carriageway to pass and so give you as much leeway as possible

Moreover there is no fuss; it’s just the norm.  They don't sound the horn, or wave a finger etc. 

Indeed one day we came across a small cycling club out for a ride, two or three abreast, doing around 20kph . This peloton was followed by a caravan of about a dozen of more vehicles waiting patiently to overtake.

 This queue included several white vans and at least one Audi, yet we detected no stress or impatience.  They would all get by when it was safe.

In contrast your typical English driver seems more concerned about scratching their paintwork than looking out for cyclists safety.

As long as it will not marginally inconvenience them, a “Volvoiste” will sometimes self-consciously pull out and give you a reasonable amount of room.

If they would have to slow their progress by any measurable extent however, they generally prefer to see if they can just “squeeze past”.

Their concern for their paintwork means that, as they do so, they probably unconsciously hold their breath or even hunch their shoulders so as “feel smaller” as they pass.

Once past, the act of breathing out and relaxing their shoulders probably means that they don't look in their mirrors and see the cyclist giving them the finger!

So French drivers are the best if you are cyclist. 

But hold on, wasn’t I knocked off my bike by a French motorist? 

Well that happened on a cycle route: I would have been safer on the road.

So bravo and vive la France.  

Ps. But I don’t think these reflections apply to taxi drivers. Whatever side of the Channel, each seems as bad as each other.  Oh Audi drivers are probably exempt too

The journey draws to a close

At Margaret and Rodger's on the way home.

La Mer et le fin

Well we made it. A bit of mechanical improv and we arrived just in time to miss lunch.  What recession?  Beer for P and Orangina for K - Salut!!!


Phil by text.


Entry from KR

The bike was more rideable than we thought and after a good nights sleep we thought we could press on.

Philip now in role of "domestique" which he plays with a mixture of comic abuse and utter thoughtfulness.

He tweaked the bike, produced some high powered painkillers and worked out a careful route through the city.

My front wheel had more kinks than a Tory backbencher, but with more of a mind of its own.

And thus we wobbled our way to the Med through vineyards, where there seemed more rock than soil, and then across a low ridge dotted with pine and outcrops.

The coast itself  has saltmarshes and lagoons so its a bit like being at Weston super Mare: the sea itself can be a long way off.

But we got there in the end. Of course there are no fanfares, nor bands at moments like these. No one noticed and why should they.  However, in the words of H W Tillman " I believe we so far forget ourselves, as to shake hands!"

Ps one final happy coincidence. One of Philips favourite songs from the last trip was La Mer. He is convinced he knows all the words but , to me, he simply repeats La Mer once or twice before singing "dah de dah do" in a cod French accent!

But its a lovely song and its author and singer - Charles Trenet - was born in Narbonne! Sue will try to paste a link,

The Domestique's View

Well, after 6 hours malingering in A & E thoughtlessly left Philip with nothing better to do than chat to underdressed French and American girls.  Still shocked he had to be led to a 'nice hotel  room' but in one Narbonne's fruitier banlieus, he complained. I had to cancel the very reasonably priced sports masseuse whom we had cycled past coming  into Narbonne.   This morning only extra coffee and a pot Belge from the local Pharmacie persuaded him back onto the bike on which he wobbled for effect through the  town. Talk about highly strung coureurs.

From Sue - link to Charles Trenet info - Well done from me and from Dan and Lorna - looking forward to you both coming home.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Trenet

So near and yet so far

Phil and Keith cycled on today - partly on the Canal du Midi - heading for the Med at Narbonne and very nearly made it.  More details to follow but Keith was knocked off his bike by a motorist as they headed into central Narbonne.


A long wait in A and E took up the rest of the day but the good news is that no bones are broken - he is just very stiff and bruised.


They are going to try and get a hire car tomorrow and head up to the Loire - and a flight from Tours  to Manchester on Tuesday.  


Perhaps they may get their feet in the Med ( they are less that 5 k away) - but probably not the bike wheels as planned.  Maybe Phil may complete it for them.


Bon voyage and Bon route 


Sue xxx

Vive le Tour

85 k in really hot conditions to reach Revel, a bastide town overlooking the broad valley that links Toulouse and the Med ( DN - what is the proper name for this? )

Its a handsome medieval town with a lovely market hall right in the centre and a 1930s public baths.

Our route followed that by a recent Tour, as we saw Vive le Tour marked on the road.

We also passed a lovely memento to one of the great figures of the Tour, though he never won it. Raymond Poulidor was the housewives' favourite and came second many times. Generally I think he came second to the legendary Jacques Anquetil, who I think won the Tour 5 times.

Anquetil was a hard man, uncompromising and unsentimental. The antithesis of Poulidor in fact. And when challenged on drugs he darkly said " you don't win the Tour de France on mineral water"!

Anyway, in 1968 Poulidor lost his chance to win when a car strayed onto the course. And there is a little monument marking the spot.

We are doing the Tour on coffee and orangina and, for me, the occasional cigar! If we could get anything stronger then we probably would!

And if we had raced  some of the hills we did today (one went on for 6 k) in high summer too, only to find your hopes dashed by a bloody driver .....

the monument would be to a  dead motorist and not the lost opportunity.

Vive le Tour and vive Poulidor.

No sprint finish

Our objective today was Cordes sur Ciel. We knew we were in for a steep finish, but it was the hills in between that concerned us.

The first started literally outside our hotel door, and went up for 5 k. Half way up we realised we were on the wrong hill. This was a bad thing.

We felt we could rejoin our route and pressed on. When we summitted we were back on route and the slight detour had probably eased our ascent.  This was a good thing.

We then immediately started a long descent, shooting down to the River Lot. Though the descent was thrilling (aka terrifying ) we soon lost all our hard won height. And after 12k we were climbing steeply again. This was unquestionably a bad thing.

The day went on in that way. Techically we were crossing a dissected plateau with the Rivers Cele, Lot, Averyon, Viaun cutting deep valleys into the landscape.

On the tops there were flat sections where you could boule along, and the scenery was fine.

We stopped for lunch at Villefranche, a stunning medieval town with a fabulous market. Over a sandwich on a park bench we fell into conversation with an Australian who was doing a short tour. She had had the worst of the weather  having started a week ago, and was about to set off back to family in England. She told us about a worldwide touring forum\club - "warm showers" by name. Families could register and offer support of various kinds to tourers - the minimum being a shower.

We were slightly dreading the climb out of St Martin. Its three hair pin bends were so tight on the inside as to feel about 30%. But we got up it, Philip in better state than me.

Interesting that our memories of that climb somehow blotted out the other few climbs between us and the final climb up to Cordes.

We are camping tonight in balmy weather. From experiencing english weather over the last few days, we are now bang in Midi type weather. Hard to adjust, but lovely now as the heat of the day eases.

We will however have to cycle up the hill to eat!

The man from Barrow

About 65k today, climbing up onto the Causse from Gourdon, then crossing it for about 40k, before descending steeply into Figeac.

I struggled to do more than 9 kph on the uphill but the speedo touched 59 kph on the descent.  

Philip, in his capacity, as the fittest fat man he knows, was faster both ways.

The Causse looked great, once the mist cleared.  Sheep and goats , with "cow bells" ( if that's not nonsense ) , dry stone walls, small fields and rocky outcrops. And utterly deserted.

What few villages there were had been by-passed by the new road that had been put in a few years ago. With its cuttings and embankments ( the former now natural rock gardens with saxifrage and stuff ) it made a more even road for cyclists.

But no cafes or buvettes till we reached a relais routier about 40 k in. We stopped for 4 courses ( passing on the cheese ) plus wine for about 12€ each.

And as we ate we reminisced about the man from Barrow. We bumped into him on this road in 2006.  He and a mate had decided, one night in the pub, to cycle up Mount Ventoux.

It must have been quite a night in the pub ! Ventoux is serious. The great Tommy Simpson died on its slopes.

He had got his bike out of a skip, bought  a cheap tent from Millets, and got a flight to Angouleme. He had slept the last night in a field by the road and was planning to meet his mate in Millau and go on from there.

He was something of an ingenue ( what is the french for ingenue? ) speaking little or no French, determinedly mispronouncing Millau, and commenting regretfully how French tinned tuna was not as good as you got at home !

In contrast to our lycra and specialist gear, he wore jeans, a work shirt and plimsolls.

I am not sure he knew what he had let himself in for (the jeans were going to hurt for a start ) and I am not sure he quite knew the geography. He planned to get to Millau that night, which was a huge undertaking. 

But all credit to him! He seemed a decent bloke and he had already made great progress.   I hope he made it.

If he did, it would make a great story down the pub. And the tale might have included meeting two poncey englishman with fancy gear.

At Figeac

KR takes advantage of his prone position to film architecture in Figeac.


Phil.

Lunch stop

Round 1 of the menu complet at 7.5 euros.  Not rainy today - but fog.

Phil xx   ( by text)

Everything stops for tea - again

And today we took tea on an ex railway bridge over the mighty Dordogne.

We found a cycle track, using an old railway line, on the outskirts of Sarlat which whisked us south on a green lane.  After the frantic traffic in the town, it was bliss. The railway cuttings were covered in moss and the trees almost formed a tunnel.

And in this way we swept over the Dordogne. The bridge is about 75 feet above the river and we thought it would be fun to practise synchronised peeing, but discretion and unreliable plumbing prevented an incident!

We finished at the hill top town of Gourdon , and its medieval streets were hard won! Even the granny gear didn't save me and I had to wobble out of my cleats at one stage and gasp like a beached fish. But I did not get off the bike.

Sue booked ahead and found us a splendid hotel.

Ps the taking tea picture was taken yesterday in the midst of heavy rain




PPS - Happy Birthday KR !

Everything stops for tea!

There is a room - but only one bed

We put in some miles today. More than 90k and the last 30 in the rain.

We exceeded yesterday's effort by lunch: stopping at a relais routier at St Yrieux la Perche. It was full of working men but Madame shoehorned us into a table sharing with two others. I think we had 5 courses plus wine and coffee.

Philip has good French these days ( the benefit of having a French mistress ) and we were assured there was a  hotel in Hautefort. Moreover it had a very good restaurant attached.

We were also assured that the 40k to Hautefort was either level or downhill. I am sure overall we are now at a lower altitude but that misses out the ups and downs in between!

However we made decent progress arriving at Hautefort around 5 in steady rain. There was an auburge signposted from the road ( with  air conditioning etc ) and we slogged up a steep hill and then round winding cobbled streets ( interesting in the wet) to find it closed!

The rain was now heavy and we had to return steeply downhill ( with me a nervous lanterne rouge, with shot brakes ) and then uphill again to a very basic place.  The good news was that they had a room: the bad that there was only one bed.

Tomorrow is my 59th birthday . What an odd way to begin it!

 Knowing Philip he will turn it all into a Morecambe and Wise sketch. But though he does all the jokes, he's got the short fat hairy legs!

Two dinners in the wet

At Availles we dined at the friendly Lion d'Or which was full, but they let us drink their beer and bring in pizza from up the road. News while waiting there of changes to the name of Le Club Bimbo which appears on all the  village signs - an impolite cocking of the snook. By bed time it is raining but at least the pitter-patter drowns the noise of the frogs in the river. Damp start as we hardy souls make tea but the neighbouring safari-style 4x4 teams drive to the sanitaire to wash. And so the day continues with a cold rain falling sometimes heavy and sometimes light. It stops long enough to eat steak- frites baguettes in a lay-by. By Rochechouart we abandon the day like wimps. Keith is asleep within 15 minutes without washing his smalls.


Phil

A tale of two chain rings

For much of today we could roll alongside the Vienne in a big gear.  But the last bit we found ourselves in an area known as le petite suisse. And things got harder!

For every up there was an immediate down and I was in my granny gear for two much of the time.

This very much la France profonde. Off the beaten track, sleepy villages. The land very fertile and the odd lovely chateau ( of the just the right size to dream about ! ) 

History close to the surface and we came past a church where Mervingian stone coffins were used as the walls of the churchyard. We are talking pre Charlemagne here, around C6 and C7.

Lovely! And yet there is a balance between sleepy and deserted. And there are loads of  "to let" signs.

We have now camped at Availles Limousin, right by the Vienne. We are looking anxiously at the weather as le Meteo is predicting some awful stuff, and its just starting to rain !

However Philip has brought beer!

On the road.... again

After a great stay at Breze it's back on the road .... perhaps with a little reluctance.

After 36 hours of comfort,company  and fine dining, it was hard to get on the bike this morning.

It all felt very strange.

It wasn't that we had forgotten how to ride a bike: just that we had to get our minds around how we got into this in the first place.

Spreading the big French map across Margaret and Rodgers dining table had not helped as it reminded us just how far we had to go. Crossing the Loire was indeed a milestone but only one third of the way in!

So it was slowly and stiffly to Loudun for coffee and then slightly quicker to Lencloitre- our projected stop for the day.

By then we were in better shape and added another 30k so as to reach the Vienne river.

Camping tonight and looking anxiously at the weather.

The contrast could not be more marked. Ate at a Michelin recommended restuarant last night. Omelette and chips in a buvette tonight.

Both have their merits and, after 96 k today, we felt we deserved chips!

It's just not all about the bike

We are at breze, near saumur, and staying with our friends margaret and rodger. They have a holiday complex with three gites and a pool in the grounds of their property. ( http://www.loire-holiday-rentals.com) 


They are surrounded by vineyards, and have panoramic views to the south. We did 95k today, sweeping down to cross the loire at la rosiere. The loire marks our first big landmark, about 300 k into the trip. The country has really opened out from the normandy hills . We saw our first vineyards, and the area looks very fertile. And tonight we will sample some wonderful local wine. Just as well its a rest day tomorrow. Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

A rest day and an opportunity to visit a favourite place - Chinon.

Philip and I stopped off at Margaret and Rodger's place in 2006, when we last rode across France.   Yet they were kind enough to ask us back!

Last night they laid on a dinner party for us, along with two of their friends who are staying in one of the gites.  Just before we went in for the meal Margaret cautioned us about topics for discussion over dinner.

Last time she was surprised ( surprised only because Margaret is not easily shocked ) at our discussion on how effective our padded shorts were, how sore our a****s were etc. you get the picture.

So Philip and I were on our best behaviour , sat up straight ( we agreed privately that our a***s were not bad at all in bad shape ) and enjoyed fine local wine, some lovely food and great company.

Today we did some touristy stuff, wandering around Chinon market and having a quick look at the castle.  I failed Philips test of how many different ages of construction I could spot in the walls of the castle, but we had a fine time.

We have another meal planned at a fine restuarant in Saumur tonight and then its "back in the saddle again".

We have really enjoyed our 2 nights here.  If you fancy holidaying in this area, have a look at Margaret and Rodger's web site www.La-Charpenterie.co.uk

They even have bikes you can borrow. Bring your own padded shorts and don't mention the state of your .........

Argentan, Monday 14th May

When the rolling English drunkard......

Chesterton's road builder would have approved of the first leg of the route today. Smooth easy riding, winding a sinuous way through rich farm land. The going was such that I was trying to calibrate the difference between todays"rolling" and yesterdays"undulating".... And then I was  brought short by a bloody long steep hill!,  I was only two clicks off the granny gear when we finally got to the top. On to sille la guillaume ( aka silly billy ) , and a fine lunch stop to avoid a nasty shower. Very pleasant couple ran the bar and I don't think I have ever been asked  if I needed a towel before sitting down to eat. Fast D road toward  sables sur sarthe, but once we crossed the A 81 motorway the road was busier with big lorries. The going was straight but narrow. No overtaking for most of it ( due to scores of little blind summits). The lorries were very good but you could not help thinking that if they lost concentration for a moment.... Our nerves were fully wracked by the time we got to poille sur vegre and we found a great detour via a medieval village at Asnieres. Superb church with some C12 frescoes. Good riding then to Sables sur Sarthe. 78k Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

And I'll be a free man on Monday

I love it when a plan comes together! And today we were supposed to get to villaines la juhel , a distance of 57 k. And so it proved. The going was more hilly than yesterday, and on one ascent into carrouges I was thinking of getting off the bike. It was only the sign "Bar" at the top of the hill that kept me going, and when I got there the place was shut! There's a trend there. Yesterday our fine hotel restaurent was shut on sunday evening and la patronne told us that all the restaurents in argentan were likely to be shut too ( gallic shrug ). We ended up walking 2 k and eating at a motorway service station, Tonight our friendly budget hotel's restaurent is shut too ( shrug: well its a monday ) and they were not sure if anywhere else in town would be open. Its such a small place I guess they are being polite and everything else in town is definately shut too. Ah well. Tant pis as the french probably don't say. Philip and I can live on our reserves. K * with apologies to Ewan McColl

Back in the saddle again

We are in Argentan.

Some stats to start off with.  97 k at an average of 16 kph. Reached a top speed of 50k an hour apparently  ( though at the time I think we did that  my eyes were watering so much I could not see the speedo)!

Don't want to reduce the trip to numbers but have to admit that I thought our first day would be  a leisurely 50 odd kilometres, whereas in fact I had planned it in miles. Doh!

Philip took the news pretty well, all considering.

Very early start. Breakfast on the boat soon after 6, and off at 7. Adopted the hobbit practice of having first and second breakfasts, plus a coffee stop.

Fast good roads. The famous normandy "bocage" replaced by huge fields, as far as the eye can see in some places.

"Back in the saddle again" is apparently the signature tune of Gene Autrey- the singing cowboy. 

Philip sings the first line of this song at the start of each day. I am sure he knows all other words but for those who prefer the original Sue will add a link to the man himself, complete with horse, singing it all. Words fail me.... Sadly they did not fail Gene.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZqRL7nJB48

( Note - hope this is the right one!  S)

- or this one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hpqcpiLmoI

A picture of Phil's bike - now ready for the road.

Next Saturday, 12th May 2012  Keith And Philip leave from Portsmouth travelling on the night ferry to Caen.  Their trip across France to the Mediterranean starts on Sunday. They hope to complete the trip by the end of May.